Rajasthan — the Aravalli Hills and the Thar Desert

Eight gentle-to-moderate off-beat treks in Rajasthan, in two parts. Part A, the Aravalli Hills: tenth-century temple ruins, forest lakes, a metre-gauge mountain railway and Rajasthan's highest waterfall. Part B, the Thar Desert: Bishnoi villages, lost temples, dune camps with camel men and the Great Indian Bustard at dawn — exposure to the deep desert without it becoming an ordeal.

All eight routes at a glance

Harshnath & Lohargal: the Shekhawati Aravalli

Easy–Moderate · 3 days · ₹9,200 per person · from Jaipur

Three gentle days on the northern Aravalli outliers: the Harshagiri climb to the Harshnath ruins, the Surya Kund at Lohargal and two sections of its hill.

Waypoints: Jaipur → Harsh village → Harshnath temple → Bheruji shrine & north ridge → Lohargal → Malketu temple & Chetan Das stepwell → Kirori kund → Shakambhari forest temple → Barkhandi Baba ridge → Nag Kund & Tapkeshwar Mahadev

Route highlights

  • Harshnath temple ruins: Built 956–957 CE and wrecked in 1679: a roofless pancharatha shrine, a Nandi, torana pillars and sculptures of Vinayaki, Durga.
  • Surya Kund, Lohargal: A sacred pool below the Sun temple, fed by a cliff-side pond that becomes a waterfall in the monsoon; the Pandavas are said to have bathed here.
  • Malketu & the Chetan Das stepwell: Four hundred steps to a hilltop shrine, then a seven-storey, 108-step stepwell about 500 years old, quietly crumbling.

Hidden gem: Harshnath temple ruins (956 CE) — A tenth-century Shiva temple on a 900 m Aravalli summit, destroyed in 1679 and never rebuilt.

Skills you'll learn: Heat management, traditional water structures, reading a temple or fort, and tracking in dust — Level 1 (3 days) or Level 2 (7 days).

Mount Abu Wild: Trevor's Tank, Guru Shikhar & the Anadra Bridle Path

Moderate · 3 days · ₹9,200 per person · from Abu Road

Three days on the Mount Abu Wildlife Sanctuary's trails: Tiger Path to Trevor's Tank, Guru Shikhar from Oriya village, Achalgarh, and the 12 km Anadra descent.

Waypoints: Abu Road → Oriya village → Trevor's Tank via Tiger Path → Arna ravines → Guru Shikhar (1,722 m) by the forest trail → Achalgarh fort & Mandakini kund → Anadra Point → Anadra bridle path → Anadra village

Route highlights

  • Trevor's Tank at dawn: A crocodile pond in a bamboo valley 5 km from town, reached by the 6 km Tiger Path: green munia, paradise flycatcher.
  • Guru Shikhar by the forest trail: The Aravalli's highest point (1,722 m) climbed from Oriya on foot and reached before the road traffic.
  • Achalgarh & Mandakini kund: A 15th-century Mewar fort on a hill with the Achaleshwar temple and the Mandakini tank's stone buffaloes — a brief, busy stop on the way to Salgaon.

Hidden gem: The Anadra bridle path — A 12 km historic bridle road that drops off Mount Abu's western cliff face to the desert plains at Anadra village.

Skills you'll learn: Heat management, traditional water structures, reading a temple or fort, and tracking in dust — Level 1 (3 days) or Level 2 (7 days).

The Aravalli Crest: Kumbhalgarh, Thandi Beri, Goram Ghat & Bhilberi Falls

Moderate · 7 days · ₹25,900 per person · from Udaipur

A seven-day traverse of the central Aravalli: Kumbhalgarh sanctuary to Thandi Beri and Ranakpur, the Goram Ghat railway and its waterfall.

Waypoints: Udaipur → Kumbhalgarh village → Fort wall walk at dusk → Areth gate → Joba wolf point → Thandi Beri lake & forest rest-house → Sanctuary trail to Ranakpur → Phulad station → Goram Ghat → Goram Ghat waterfall & Mahadev temple → Dewair battlefield

Route highlights

  • Kumbhalgarh's wall at dusk: Thirty-six kilometres of 15th-century rampart along the ridge — walked outside the ticketed hours when the day-trippers have gone.
  • Thandi Beri: A forest lake inside the sanctuary with a two-room rest-house; wolves at Joba, leopard, sloth bear and four-horned antelope on the 14 km trail from Kumbhalgarh.
  • Goram Ghat by metre-gauge: A near-empty daily passenger train climbs the ghat through the line's only tunnel and a string of bridges to a halt with a waterfall.

Hidden gem: Bhilberi Falls (55 m) — Rajasthan's highest waterfall, in the Bhagora forest block of Todgarh–Raoli Sanctuary.

Skills you'll learn: Heat management, traditional water structures, reading a temple or fort, and tracking in dust — Level 1 (3 days) or Level 2 (7 days).

Vagad: Sitamata Forest, the Mahi Islands & the Temples of Arthuna

Easy–Moderate · 7 days · ₹26,400 per person · from Udaipur

Seven easy days through Vagad: Sitamata Wildlife Sanctuary on foot, the Jakham river, the Mahi island country of Banswara, Arthuna's Paramara temples.

Waypoints: Udaipur → Arampura forest → Flying-squirrel grove at dusk → Sitamata temple → Lav-Kush kund & Valmiki ashram → Jakham river camp → Jakham dam backwaters → Chachakota island village → Island loop & boat to Jagpura → Arthuna temple ruins → Deo Somnath temple on the Som

Route highlights

  • Sitamata's spring temple: A shrine deep in the teak where Sita is said to have raised Lav and Kush — a perennial spring, the Lav-Kush kund and the Valmiki ashram.
  • Flying squirrels at Arampura: At sunset the Indian giant flying squirrel leaves its mahua hollow and glides across the canopy.
  • The Mahi islands: Banswara's backwaters, where the Mahi Bajaj Sagar reservoir drowned a hill country and left a hundred islands — we sleep on one and cross by boat.

Hidden gem: Arthuna temple ruins (1079–1190 CE) — A field of Paramara-era temples at the edge of a Vagad village — Mandalesa (1079), Nilakantha Mahadeva.

Skills you'll learn: Heat management, traditional water structures, reading a temple or fort, and tracking in dust — Level 1 (3 days) or Level 2 (7 days).

Bishnoi Country: Guda Lake, Blackbuck & the Khejarli Grove

Easy · 3 days · ₹10,100 per person · from Jodhpur

A village-to-village walk in the semi-desert: Guda Bishnoi lake and its wildlife, the potters of Singhasini, the Khejarli memorial grove.

Waypoints: Jodhpur → Guda Bishnoi village → Guda lake shore & blackbuck grasslands → Singhasini potters' hamlet → Khejarli memorial grove → Kankani → Salawas → Jajiwal scrub

Route highlights

  • Guda Bishnoi lake: A village tank with demoiselle and sarus cranes in winter, blackbuck and nilgai at the margins, and the whole Bishnoi ethic on display at dawn.
  • Blackbuck among the fields: Herds of fifty or more grazing beside khejri trees and bajra stubble, unafraid — protected by faith rather than fences.
  • Khejarli grove: The 1730 sacrifice site: cenotaph, temples and the trees themselves; the story told by the people who keep it.

Hidden gem: Khejarli memorial grove (1730) — A grove of khejri trees, a cenotaph and small temples 25 km south-east of Jodhpur where 363 Bishnois died protecting the trees in 1730.

Skills you'll learn: Desert water planning, navigating by sun and stars, working with camels, and the Bishnoi conservation ethic — Level 1 (3 days) or Level 2 (7 days).

Kiradu & the Mahabar Dunes: Barmer's Lost Temples

Easy–Moderate · 3 days · ₹11,300 per person · from Barmer

Three days around Barmer: the quiet Mahabar dune field, the Kiradu temple group at Hathma, the hills that ring it, and a herders' route back through the scrub.

Waypoints: Barmer → Mahabar dune field → Mahabar dune crest walk → Hathma hamlet → Kiradu temple group → Kiradu hill-ring ridge → Rabari grazing route to Jasai

Route highlights

  • Mahabar dunes: A dune field 6–8 km from Barmer with no camps and no camel-stands: sunset, a fire, a sky full of stars, and nobody else.
  • Someshwara temple, Kiradu: The best-preserved of the five: a Solanki-style shrine of the eleventh century with apsaras, warriors, Ganeshas and a churning-of-the-ocean relief.
  • The hill ring: A ridge walk around the amphitheatre of hills that hid Kiratkoop, the Paramara capital — views over the whole temple field and the Thar beyond.

Hidden gem: Kiradu temples (11th–12th century) — Five Paramara temples in a hill amphitheatre 39 km from Barmer — Someshwara's carved walls and a Samudra-manthan relief.

Skills you'll learn: Desert water planning, navigating by sun and stars, working with camels, and the Bishnoi conservation ethic — Level 1 (3 days) or Level 2 (7 days).

Bikaner to Jodhpur: Kolayat, the Kakoo Dunes & the Cranes of Khichan

Easy–Moderate · 7 days · ₹31,000 per person · from Bikaner

From Bikaner to Jodhpur by the slow road: Gajner sanctuary, Kolayat lake, the Kakoo dune field with camels, the crane feeding ground at Khichan.

Waypoints: Bikaner → Gajner lake → Gajner sanctuary edge walk → Kolayat → Kolayat ghats & temples; dusk lamps → Kakoo village → Kakoo dune crest camp → Dune ridges & Bishnoi dhanis loop → Khichan → Crane roost dunes & village walk → Jodhpur

Route highlights

  • Kolayat at dusk: Fifty-two ghats and marble temples around a desert lake; lamps floated at sunset; quiet except at the Kartik Purnima fair.
  • The Kakoo dunes: Two nights on an unvisited dune field with the village's camel men — crests, ridges and Bishnoi dhanis, and a sky without a single light.
  • Khichan's cranes: Up to 20,000 demoiselle cranes descend on a village feeding ground at about 08:30 each winter morning.

Hidden gem: The Kakoo dune field — A dune sea around a small village 70 km south-west of Bikaner — no camps, no loudspeakers, a few camel outfits who know it.

Skills you'll learn: Desert water planning, navigating by sun and stars, working with camels, and the Bishnoi conservation ethic — Level 1 (3 days) or Level 2 (7 days).

Thar Deep: Khaba, the Paliwal Ruins, Sudasari & the Barna Dunes

Moderate · 7 days · ₹34,300 per person · from Jaisalmer

A camel-supported walking traverse south-west of Jaisalmer: Khaba fort and the Paliwal hamlets, Bhil and Rajput dhanis, dune camps.

Waypoints: Jaisalmer → Khaba fort & Paliwal village → Paliwal hamlet ruins → Bheelon ki Dhani → Lakhmanon ki Basti → Sudasari → Barna dunes → Barna dune sea → Khuri dunes → Mool Sagar garden

Route highlights

  • Khaba & the Paliwal ruins: A thirteenth-century fort over a village emptied in the 1820s, and the roofless hamlets beyond it.
  • Dune camps: Three nights on isolated dunes with camels, a fire and the Thar's sky; sunrise from the crest.
  • Sudasari: The Desert National Park's best-kept grassland: Great Indian Bustard, chinkara, desert fox and sandgrouse on a dawn circuit with a forest guide.

Hidden gem: Sudasari at dawn (Desert National Park) — A fenced sewan-grass enclosure 55 km from Jaisalmer where the critically endangered Great Indian Bustard survives.

Skills you'll learn: Desert water planning, navigating by sun and stars, working with camels, and the Bishnoi conservation ethic — Level 1 (3 days) or Level 2 (7 days).

Come back more capable

Every route on this page is built to leave you a little stronger, with the desert and the hills doing the teaching.